Rhine / Main / Danube River Cruise (Rüdesheim to Bamberg)

Having already completed the section of our voyage on the Rhine, Panorama takes a hard left turn onto the Main River at Mainz in the early evening of day 120 and we head towards Frankfurt. Passing Frankfurt airport around midnight reminded us how small Europe is - we'd already passed through Frankfurt once - on our way from Miami to Istanbul just 68 days earlier.

Main River

After Frankfurt we head south towards Miltenberg winding our way through Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg and Hesse towards the Danube and eventually the Black Sea. Around 500 km long, the west flowing Main has been connected to the east flowing Danube since 1992 via the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal.

The river has been canalised with 34 large locks (300 m long × 12 m wide).

Lock filling with water from upstream

sufficient  to allow two 110 m  × 11.45 m vessels joined  together to  navigate the total length of the river.

Bavaria 52 following Rock into the empty lock

Our magnificent river cruise ship Avalon Panorama, the newest vessel in the Avalon fleet, was only launched at the beginning of the 2011 season. Luxuriously fitted out, she is almost totally glass walled from the main lounge

Lounge looking forward

the dining room

Dining room with panoramic views

to the club lounge at the stern.

We feel a little like royalty being accommodated in such grand style. To lie tucked up under the doona and watch the morning views of the impressive European countryside was a heavenly experience.

Panorama from the Panorama

 Our Royal Deck stateroom (definitely not a cabin) provided panoramic views of the countryside as we glided by (sliding door opened or closed).

Panorama stateroom

The landscape boasted gorgeous autumn tints everywhere we looked.

Autumn colours

The crisp misty mornings and glassy waterway were poetic.

Passing day tour vessel gives way

Our first port on the Main is Miltenberg. This town has many beautifully preserved timber-frame houses from the 15th to 17th centuries.

Main Street, Miltenberg

The main street also has the beautifully preserved  the Hotel Zum Riesen (one of Germany's oldest inns).

Hotel Zum Riesen

If you look very closely at the photo you'll see what looks like the Star of David hanging from the hotel sign. This is actually the 'Brauerstern' (Brewer's Star) and it marks a house given the right to brew beer.

Further up the river we call into Würzburg, famous for its Residenz - a vast palace commissioned by two prince-bishops between 1720 and 1744.

Würzburg Residenz

Like thousands of visitors before us we were impressed with the world-famous, column-free vaulted Baroque staircase especially it's ceiling fresco representing the four continents - the largest one-piece fresco ever painted.

Residenz staircase

About 90% of the city was destroyed British Lancaster bombers during a WW2 air raid. All of the city's churches, cathedrals, and other monuments were heavily damaged or destroyed (Würzburg was destroyed more totally than Dresden the previous month).

The mighty Fortress Marienberg, the symbol of Würzburg, served as a home of the prince-bishops for nearly five centuries. It was captured by the US Army during the final last-ditch German resistance in April 1945. This prominent landmark on the Main river was clearly visable from our ship.

Fortress Marienberg

Alongside the river we spotted this Alter Kranen (Harbour Crane) - a rare monument of industrial architecture of the Baroque era. The crane works by "human power" with the help of a treadwheel and several hand pulley sets.

Wurzburg Harbour Crane

Wurzburg's St. Mary's Chapel (originally a synagogue), is a grim reminder to visitors of the destruction of the city's Jewish community in the 15th century. In the period of Nazi rule, nearly the entire Jewish population of Wurzburg was one again wiped out.

St Mary's Chapel apse

Bamberg, our final stop on the Main river was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site due to the city's impressive collection of diverse and impressive 12th century Romanesque through to 18th century Rococo architectural styles.

Fresco covered Altes Rathaus (old townhall)

Bamberg streetscape

The magnificent Rosengarten (Rose Garden) at the Neue Residenz provided a tremendous view over this picturesque city. By now the plants had been pruned for winter and the sculptures covered up to protect them from the snow and freezing temperatures.

Rose Garden prepared for winter

Rose Garden in summer

The Neue Residenz (New Palace) (1698-1704) was initially occupied by the prince-bishops, and by the deposed King Otto of Greece in the 19th century.

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As promised, the next post will take you along the Main - Danube Canal to Saltzburg. In the meantime please keep sending in your comments and questions.

If you're unsure which stories you've missed - look for the Blog Archive near the bottom of the page - it's the best way to select the post you haven't read yet (or want to re-read).